A quick blog post which may hint at my next big kit that I will be building (along with a hint from the end of my previous LEGO post here – can you guess?).
My dastardly-evil (just kidding) other half gave me this recently: kit 8259 with the chain-link treads which I was after (nyuh nyuh how did she know!?).
I rarely if ever build LEGO kits “to the letter”, preferring instead to dump the bits into my collection and go DIY (the most fun!), but I thought I’d give it a go this time around and here’s some quick pics of how that turned out.
Of course, the main thing of interest (for me at least) in this kit is the treads which will be used in my next big build.
There’s still more parts to acquire before I can truly get started, but stay tuned for more on that front soon! In the meantime, enjoy…
I’ve recently made some modifications to my Wilesco D405 Traktor and the pictures below show the results of it.
The first thing I did was remove the canopy from the Traktor to give it a more “tractor-like” look, and then out came the paints and I started tweaking the colour scheme a little bit.
Just a dab…
The major parts I painted are listed below:
Boiler end-cap
Front beam axle
Smoke stack
Cylinder end-caps
Steam inlet pipe (painted black to preserve heat and hopefully increase steam efficiency)
There were a few other bits which I chose to touch-up a little, but the above list is most of it. I’ll let the pics below do the rest of the talking. Enjoy!
P.S. Stay tuned for some videos of it in action soon!
P.P.S. The rubber tyres you see fitted around the wheels of my Traktor were purchased from Forest Classics. Check them out here: http://www.forest-classics.co.uk/
What you’ll see here is the latest and greatest iteration of this truck of mine – and probably the last one at that – alas, I’m looking for bigger fish to fry. More on that later though, let’s start by getting down and dirty with all the changes and upgrades which have happened to this vehicle since Mk1 back in 2009…
Point me in the right direction
One of the things I could have done better with the design of the Mk1 was that of the steering system; the steering gear ratio didn’t deliver as much steering torque as I would have liked. I solved this by adding an additional gear-set to which increased the gear reduction by another 3:1. This means more turns of the steering wheel is required to get the same amount of steering action, but with it comes a welcome increase in steering force and realism.
I’ll let the following video do the rest of the talking…
Chain me up (again)
Another new feature with Mk2 is the addition of a “chain brake”. This is basically a form of “handbrake” which serves to hold the vehicle stationary and stop it rolling away, or off a table onto the floor for example.
Normally the gearbox serves as a sufficient braking mechanism when either 1st or 2nd gear is selected and the motor stopped, however if the gearbox should slip into neutral, the vehicle has the tendency to let gravity take over…
The chain brake operates by sliding a “friction gear” into mesh with the gearbox final drive gear. The friction gear is keyed to a stationary shaft which cannot rotate, meaning that once in mesh with the gearbox, it resists movement of the drivetrain and thus, the rear wheels. The only disadvantage of this system is that if one rear wheel (or both, somehow) are off the ground, the vehicle can still roll even with the chain brake engaged due to the action of the rear differential.
The picture below highlights the location of the chain brake and its associated linkage system and lever (red). Keen observers may also notice the chain tension gear I’ve added to the rear chain which helps avoid the chain jumping links and slipping over the rear differential crown gear under load:
Chain brake
Trippin’ on LSD
That somewhat controversial heading is somewhat (fully?) matched by the sheer innovative genius that could only describe the limited slip differential (LSD) that has made its appearance with Mk2. /brag
A bit of background…
The design of this LSD is purely my own and took a bit of experimentation and tweaking to get right, but I must say, it works quite swimmingly in its current form. For those who aren’t quite familiar with what an LSD is in “vehicle-speak” (you’re still reading this?? just kidding!), it’s a differential system which attempts to overcome a traditional differential’s one major short-coming: the tendency to transfer ALL torque to the driving wheel with the LEAST amount of traction.
Let’s step back one step further: the purpose of a differential is to allow one wheel on a common axle to turn faster than the wheel on the opposite side during a corner. This ensures effective steering action and reduced tyre wear. I won’t go too far into this, as there are a lot of articles and info on this on the Internet already (see the end of this post).
“Most” cars and vehicles are fitted with what’s known as an “open” or “standard” differential. This works fine around corners and during general operation on stable, high-grip surfaces where both wheels on the axle have equal amounts of grip. However, if one should venture into a loose surface, and one of the wheels connected to the differential should slip, or become raised off the ground by a bump, etc, all torque is immediately transferred to that wheel. Meanwhile, the wheel on the ground on the other side of the axle (in most cases with all the traction) sits motionless – when it could be driving and moving the vehicle.
An LSD works by re-routing the torque that normally takes the “path of least resistance” and transferring it to the wheel which actually has traction, i.e, the “loaded wheel”. Thus how the system earned its titled “limited slip”. A good measure of how well an LSD works, is to raise one driving wheel off the ground, and seeing how much torque gets transferred to the “loaded” wheel on the other side (an “open” differential in such a situation would spin the lifted wheel uselessly and move the vehicle nowhere). You’ll see me perform this test in my LSD test video below shortly.
How it works!
So we finally get to the nitty-gritty; just how the LSD system on the Mk2 functions. Originally, I was going to trial a geared version but belts and bands have always intrigued me for their smoothness in operation and the fact that they are generally more forgiving under load and perhaps even more variable in setting than straight-up gears.
So…I went with a “dual-band” setup for the Mk2′s LSD system. I’ll do what I always do and attempt to explain in text, follow with a vague pic, and finally show you a video.
On each half-shaft of the differential, I’ve mounted a large pulley. Now these two pulleys on their own don’t achieve anything special, but to these pulleys I’ve added a “band” each, which then connects to a “common shaft”. This common shaft is mounted upon an adjustable mechanism which moves the shaft back and forth (adjustable by the user using the “torque wheel”) so that it’s either closer-to or further-from the pulleys and thus band tension can be almost infinitely adjusted.
Here’s that pic:
LSD close-up
Increasing band tension has the effect of making the common shaft “connect” both of the large pulleys (and the two halves of the differential) together as a single unit. What this ultimately achieves is making the differential unit behave less like an “open” differential and more like a solid axle. This naturally means that when the LSD is set to its maximum torque transfer setting (maximum band tension), differential action (allowing one wheel to turn faster than the other around corners for example) is limited, but this is where the magic of using bands rather than solid gears comes into play: no matter how tight the band setting, there is always a little bit of “give” in the system.
Time for a video…
Some additional notes…
Band wear
As mentioned earlier, the use of bands rather than “solid” meshing gears gives this system its own type of “elegance”.
With this so-called elegance however comes one disadvantage over the use of traditional gears: band wear. It must be said however that under “normal” operation on solid ground and with minimum tension, the bands experience almost no wear as the pulleys go about spinning by their own free will. It’s only when the bands are tightened and the differential subjected to prolonged slip condition (where one wheel turns faster than the other), band wear starts becoming evident as they try to rotate the common shaft and transfer torque (band wear is generally visible in the form of bits of rubber residue along the bands). Having said all that, I’ve gotten several hours worth of LSD operation out of the bands currently fitted to the truck, and they haven’t let go…yet!
Slip ratio
Now slip ratios are not an easy thing to determine with a band-drive LSD system as there are many factors and variables which could affect it, such as band wear, band tension and perhaps ground surface type.
From my observations so far though, I’ve noticed that under full band tension, the LSD unit comes reasonably close to achieving a 1:1 slip ratio…meaning that the loaded wheel in a slip condition almost turns as fast as the wheel up in the air (doing nothing). Obviously getting as close to 1:1 as possible (or even over-driving) is desirable, but with a band system, it’s not as easy to achieve this (as compared to a geared setup). I’d hazard a guess and say that under band tension, this LSD transfers around 50% to 75% of the torque to the loaded wheel, which is not a bad effort indeed and as you can see in the video above, seems to work quite well in practice.
Form-factor
One of the other major advantages I’ve seen with this LSD system is the fact that the system is very compact and hardly takes up any more space than the standard differential unit. The large pulleys mounted on the differential half-shafts hardly protrude from the vehicle and the common shaft is tucked neatly up into the chassis of the vehicle too.
Some of the other additional features I’ve added to Mk2 that I thought worth mentioning (but not exactly worth their own heading) are as follows:
Rear flat-bed-mounted hoist (adjustable for tilt via linear “hydraulic” system)
Headlights! (yes, that actually work)
Various miscellaneous chassis strengthening tweaks
Gallery
Here’s a bit of an image gallery showcasing the Mk2…
Mk2 Showcase
Hoist
Chain brake
Underside 1
Underside 2
LSD adjustment wheel ("torque wheel")
Final thoughts…
I’m quite happy with the way Mk2 turned-out in the end. It’s certainly come a long way since I laid out the bare chassis rails on my building bench and started dreaming for the first time. I would have loved to add an RC system to this truck and maybe even a PTO (Power Take-Off) unit to the rear-end, but alas, some things just weren’t meant to be it seems.
Where to now? Onwards and upwards onto bigger and better things! My next model could be a U.S. Army Half-track, or a robot. Who knows?
Quick post about L.A. Noire which I blogged about a few days earlier; at the time I mentioned the second video trailer was on the way. Well, here it is! And the good news is the whole video is comprised of actual game play!
I’ve heard that we’re looking at a story line that will play out at around the 20 hour mark which will make this a massive game. I just hope that the vehicle physics are on-par with Mafia 2. If Mafia 2 could get anything right, it was the way the cars handled and slid about.
Release date has been set at May 20th. Only a bit of a shame that we won’t be getting a PC version.
Anyway, this looks ridiculously impressive already. Can’t wait!
This is the first post in my blog where I talk about the custom LEGO Technic Custom Flatbed Truck that I’ve had since about May 2009 when I started to get back into building LEGO Technic models. This model truck (purely my own design if I may say so) has gone through quite a few iterations since May ’09 and I’m still working on putting the finishing touches to the latest version as I type this.
Let’s take a step back though; this first post will introduce you to the development (from scratch) of the prototype truck and the subsequent (initial) MkI “release” (I’ll leave the latest-and-greatest version for a future post).
Prototype me!
Chassis
When starting any new LEGO Technic vehicle project, I tend to start off by getting the basics down-pat first: the chassis frame “rails”. The chassis will form almost the back-bone of the vehicle and will function as the main component which everything else bolts onto (much like real-world trucks). I normally go through a few design “phases” before I settle upon the length and width of the chassis unit. It can be difficult to envision just how long and high I want the vehicle to be, so I try to get the chassis as close to “perfect” as I can before I move on (because changes to the chassis rails can become very hard once everything else is attached to it!).
Rolling gear
Once the chassis is sorted, I start thinking about the next most important thing: the wheels! Obviously the wheels and their mounting system will form an integral part of the chassis unit and are obviously an essential part of the truck. Considerations such as wheel-base, wheel-track, steering and ground clearance start coming to the forefront of my thoughts.
Once I’ve got all these considerations sorted and perhaps after experimenting for a little while, I’ll normally end up with what you see below – a rolling chassis!
Not much to look at...yet
Wait a sec!!??
Ok so I cheated a bit here. What you see above is actually (believe it or not) the truck at a slightly more “advanced” stage of completion. You may (or may not) notice a longitudinally-mounted electric motor connected to a 2-speed gearbox, so let me fill you in those components now.
Electric motor
The electric motor I settled-on for this project was one of LEGO’s own: the “M-motor”. One thing I’ve noticed with most of LEGO’s motors, is that they mostly come with their own integrated gear-reduction. This is helpful as it means I don’t need to worry about tweaking the overall gear ratios too much before the power hits the ground. For this truck however, I still opted to build a gearbox of my own design…
Box of gears anyone?
For this project, I decided to custom-make my own LEGO gearbox from scratch. The gearbox offers 2-speeds: LOW and HIGH, plus a “neutral” range (which obviously transmits no power to the wheels).
The actual design of this ‘box is one which I’ve used for ages in my LEGO models now…it utilises an “input” shaft which connects to the electric motor, and from there, transmits power down to a “layshaft”. Finally, the power reaches the rear-end of the gearbox where I generally mount a drive shaft to the rear wheels, or in this case, a “final drive” unit which will run a chain/sprocket drive on the rear axle. If I’ve lost you several lines back, here’s a pic:
Gearbox explained...maybe
Selection of gear ratios is obtained by sliding the lower half of the gearbox (the layshaft) back and forth so that it engages LOW, neutral, or HIGH. It’s a relatively simple design but one that works admirably. As any gear head will tell you though, only one gear ratio must be able to be selected at a time, otherwise (as expected) the gearbox cannot rotate and will lock-up, so I ensured that the gears were aligned sufficiently to avoid any issues.
Here’s a YouTube video of the gearbox in action…you’ll also get to see the rolling chassis in this video (incidentally, the proposed “RC” [radio-control] feature never materialised – at least not yet anyway):
Gear ratio-wise, LOW gear offers 3:1 reduction, while HIGH gear doesn’t change the ratio at all, offering a true 1:1 ratio (direct) drive straight through the gearbox. That’s not the end of the gear reduction though; at the rear end of the gearbox, the final drive reduces the ratio (no matter what gear is selected) by 3:1 again. In other words, the trucks enjoys some fairly serious gear reduction with LOW gear engaged, to the point where the motor can easily break the rear rubber tyres loose on slippery surfaces.
Chain me up
Eventually, I hooked up a chain drive from the rear-end of the gearbox down to the rear axle of the truck (which incidentally added another 1.5:1 worth of gear reduction!). The rear axle features a fully-functioning differential unit with three spider gears. I won’t bore you too much with the details, but some of the pics you’ll find at the end of this post should hopefully tide you tech-heads over.
Frame/Body/Cabin
OK, so I’m speeding things along a little bit here (mostly for the sake of readability)…to talk about the other major component and consideration for the vehicle. The frame! Otherwise known as the body or cabin or “cab”.
Here’s one of the earliest iterations of the framework which I came up with for the truck (note the battery box mounted immediately behind the cab, which takes 6x AA batteries):
First version of frame/cab
But alas the angles in the front pillars drove me crazy from a geometrical perspective (they could never seem to line-up 100%), so I scrapped that design and went for something a little more rigid (and at more sane right-angles!):
Final frame - awaiting gearbox
Once the frame was mostly settled-on, I could focus on getting the interior sorted and other somewhat minor details such as hooking up a gear lever and linkage so that the gears could be selected from the cab (as you’ll see in videos further down this post). But there was still one of vital component remaining…a steering system!!
Steering
Steering systems are always a challenge to build. On the one hand you have two giant front tyres which need room to be turned about their steering axis (this is where you need to make sure your chassis rails are narrow enough at the front end to allow this!), and on the other hand, you need to devise a way with which you’ll get the motion of the steering wheel inside the cab all the way down to the front axle to do the actual turning of the wheels (read: a pile of linkages!). On top of this, all these linkages must clear the rest of the vehicle, the motor, etc and everything else as they move back and forth, to and fro, to steer the wheels.
The system I ended-up using for the truck could perhaps be considered a type of “drag link” and you can see a bit of how it works in the YouTube video at the end of this post. The steering system you see in action here, while satisfactory, didn’t make me as happy as I could be – the steering gear ratio was too high – so after MkI, I lowered the ratio significantly. I’ll fill you in on this in future posts.
Mk1 ready!
So I eventually got the truck built to a level of my satisfaction and thought I was done. Hah! Unfortunately (or fortunately), in LEGO land, things are never finished…there’s always something more to be added, adjusted, broken-down and re-made or just plain changed. I will save all that subsequent development for future posts though, and instead leave you with pictures of how MkI turned-out. Enjoy!
To be published by the renowned Rockstar Games, L.A. Noire is looking to be pretty promising already and that’s even though we haven’t heard much about it yet.
From what I’ve seen so far, the game will be set in the 1940s and 1950s and feature dark, stylistic environments which will set the atmosphere for (hopefully) some pretty good action. Gameplay-wise it seems this title will be focused on the player being a “good guy” and performing detective work, solving crimes in a grim, “noir-like” post-war Los Angeles – a bit of a change from the usual “bad guy” premise in (generally) bright, sunny surrounds (think “Grand Theft Auto” series and “Red Dead Redemption”).
There’s already a trailer out for this (see below) but of course it’s more of a teaser than anything. Stay tuned for January 24th when apparently a second – and presumably more-detailed – trailer will be released.
I’ve been a bit of a fan of Rockstar’s offerings in recent times, especially with titles like Red Dead Redemption. But I absolutely love the 40s and 50s eras being portrayed in games (I enjoyed Mafia 2 immensely – even with its flaws), so if this release is anything like the quality we’ve seen from Rockstar of late, I can’t wait!
Here’s some links in the meantime – check out the YouTube trailer (which I suspect shows the game in an earlier build)….but how could you not love the soundtrack!:
Well the postman has been and gone, so I am now officially the proud owner of one of these nifty car computers. There’s just way too much to say about this thing in one post! So, I’ll use this update to show you what this little baby looks like out-of-the-box, run through my in-car installation and share my initial thoughts (and save the rest for later posts!).
Get me out of this box!
The packaging for the ScanGauge II isn’t anything to write home (or to you) about, but it does the job. More notable (aside from the unit itself), is the two manuals that the unit ships with: the “Quick Start” guide, and the full-blown User Manual.
With the package open, the unit itself is quite compact, measuring in at just 12cm wide, 4cm high and 2.5cm deep; this does seem to help lend the unit for easily mounting in almost any desired position on the dashboard, but more on that later (!). Packed with the unit is the data cable which consists of a RJ45 connector at one end (which connects into the ScanGauge II unit) and an industry standard (male) OBDII connector on the other – this is the business-end of the cable which actually plugs straight into your vehicle’s OBDII port*; on my car, this port is immediately under the dash, near the steering column.
Box front
Box back
It's loose!
Connecting…
Installation of the ScanGauge II is straightforward. Connect up the cable and turn the ignition to “ON” or start the car up. The ScanGauge II display will show “Connecting…” for a short period during which time it automatically detects the OBDII protocol the vehicle uses (my Hyundai Tucson uses “KWPF” incidentally – there is also a way to manually “force” the OBDII protocol to be polled if needed).
After a short moment, all the secrets that your car has been holding back from you will be revealed! If you’re a bit of a gear-head like me, you’ve probably always wondered just what the coolant temperature was upon initial start-up (and when it was safe to start applying some full-throttle!), or whether starting off in 2nd gear at a gentle pace used less fuel than using 1st, or perhaps just how cool (or warm) the air going into your intake manifold was…well fear not, ScanGauge II has all these features – and more! Just try not to get too distracted by it!
Even if you’re not a gear-head, this unit can give you all sorts of handy info – hows about how much your trip has cost you in fuel $$$ as you drive (read: taxi meter for all your freeloading friends!).
I’ve only had the ScanGauge II for a day or two yet, but already it’s proved to be quite a handy gadget which I find myself referring to (and sometimes fumbling with) way too often while I drive (safety first mmkay).
Up on a pedestal
There are quite a few locations in the interior which the ScanGauge II can be mounted. Included in the package are two Velcro strips which will help you in your mounting endeavours. I ended-up settling on the top of the centre dash panel/fascia as the new home for my ScanGauge II because it was a bit too thick/long/wide for mounting any place else hehe .
See pics below…
Centre dash mount
Close-up 1
Close-up 2
Calibrate me, baby
One of the best features of the Scan Gauge II (and one of the main reasons why I purchased it) is that it’s capable of displaying not only average fuel consumption over a given period, but real time display as well! This might not seem like a big deal, but on my car, I only get average fuel consumption read-out, so having a real time display telling you just how much fuel you’re dumping into those cylinders right now is definitely handy. I should also mention at this stage, that all the measurements shown can be displayed in either Imperial or Metric, so if you prefer “gallons”, go right ahead – I’ll stick to “litres”.
In order to obtain the most accurate measure of fuel consumption, the ScanGauge II has a straightforward (but optional) calibration process which you can perform that only requires two tanks full of fuel. Basically, fill your fuel tank, set the “Fillup > Done” command to tell the ScanGauge II you’ve just topped-up, and drive around. When you get down to 1/4 full, fill up the tank for the second time (ask for the receipt!), use the same “Fillup” command again, but only this time, the ScanGauge II will tell you how much fuel it thinks you used, and you have the chance to manually adjust this value to actual amount you did use (by looking at your fuel receipt from the second fill-up ). I only just managed to complete this procedure last night, and I was surprised at how close it was with its initial reading (my tank took 39.2 litres to fill back up, and the ScanGauge II thought I’d burnt 41.2 litres).
As a quick aside, there are actually quite a few factors which can lead to differences in fuel consumption measurement (which I won’t go into here), which is why the manuals recommend that you attempt the calibration process using the exact same fuel station pump for your first and second tank fills (and ideally I’d say at the same time of day too). Unfortunately, I wasn’t allowed this privilege as I stopped at a random fuel station at 10pm last night on the way home, so it could well be that the ScanGauge II is more accurate than I thought (the calibration process can be run again at any time).
Watchya got?
So just what can this thing show you on its compact display screen? Here’s the definitive list of “gauges” which are built-into the unit along with the label descriptors which denote each gauge on-screen (note: some of these may not be supported by your vehicle):
* Average Fuel Consumption (AVG)
* Real Time Fuel Consumption (LHK/MPG)
* Battery Voltage (VLT)
* Coolant Temperature (WT)
* Intake Air Temperature (IA)
* Engine Speed (RPM)
* Vehicle speed (KMH/MPH)
* Manifold Pressure (not available on some vehicles – isn’t available on mine)
* Engine Load (LOD)
* Throttle Position (TPS)
* Ignition Timing (IGN)
* Open/Closed Loop
And that list is just half of what you can get. There is also a seperate mode named “TRIP” which displays things like fuel used, fuel cost, fuel remaining, max RPM reached, max coolant temperature reached, and much more. And you can view this information for the “current” drive, today’s average, (as well as yesterday’s) and for the fuel readings, you can get averages for the current fuel tank.
Virtually whatever data your car’s computer can “pull” from its on-board engine and fuel management sensors, this thing can pick-up and show you**. I haven’t yet had a chance to view all of these gauges for any respectable length of time (the screen allows you to display any four at once), but so far I have noticed how warm the intake air temperature (IAT) can get while idling away in traffic. Today while home-bound and battling peak hour traffic at a standstill for what seemed like an age, the IAT eventually reached 66 degrees (C)!!! Once I picked up some decent speed and started cruising, this figure dipped down by around 50% though and cruising around on a cool night or just after starting the car in morning, temperatures of 25-35 are generally expected. Warmer temperatures generally yield better fuel economy and lower emissions though, at the expense of outright engine performance (which is why you notice a lot of so-called “tuners” install cold-air intakes on their cars).
Also worth mentioning is the fact you can use the ScanGauge II to “pull” trouble codes from your car’s computer (if it’s experiencing any…trouble) and after repairing the issue, “clear” these codes using the ScanGauge II as well. This feature I don’t really see myself using given the relative “new-ness” of my car, but who knows I guess right?
Closing (initial) thoughts
Cruising around...
So what do I think of this thing? Well, considering all the read-outs and information available at a glance with this unit ( that is normally “hidden” from view), it’s definitely worth the $159 (Aussie retail). The fuel information this thing can show is almost worth the price of admission alone, and over time, it’s very possible that this unit will pay itself off by “teaching” you to drive in a more fuel efficient manner (especially if you are a particularly “fast” driver). Even if you’re not interested in the fuel-saving premise, there’s still a wealth of other information that you can glean from it. For me, this unit shows me a whole other dimension of my vehicle’s operating characteristics that I simply wouldn’t have got by looking at the standard dashboard gauges and readouts that came with the car from the factory.
So yes, I’d say it’s a good buy.
* Australia has been a bit iffy regarding the inclusion of the OBDII port on its vehicles so you may want to check if your vehicle has one before you shell out for this unit (otherwise it’s useless). Only since 2006 has there actually been a requirement by the Australian Design Rules (ADRs) to include this diagnostic port in all new vehicles – having a 2009 model vehicle myself, I of course didn’t have to worry, but depending on your vehicle make and year, your mileage may vary (haha).
** I’ve heard that with a bit of code tweaking, it’s also possible to display automatic transmission oil temperature with this nifty unit, but that apparently it’s a bit hit-and-miss depending on your vehicle – oh how I can wish…
Model steam engines are actually quite cool if you’re a bit of a geek like me who’s into anything with a motor in it. Several different manufacturers of the things exist out there, such as Mamod, Wilesco and the much-revered Mercer line of models (read: $$$).
This post introduces you to the current Wilesco range of steam engines I’m lucky enough to possess.
I first picked up a Wilesco steam roller (D365) maybe two years ago now, and that was my first steam model. Since then I’ve acquired another Wilesco model, the D405 tractor.
In this blog I hope to keep you updated on all things model steam, where that be tractors, boats or stationary engines and anything else related to the wide world of steam engines, big and small.
Stay tuned for more posts soon which will go into more detail, but in the meantime enjoy the pics below which show off my current steam inventory…
Here are a couple of recent YouTube videos I uploaded showing gameplay from the PC game “Mafia 2″ with the “Joe’s Adventures” DLC pack. There’s humour peppered throughout. Enjoy!
P.S. Don’t forget to visit my YouTube channel “harmanmotor”.
A quick blog post which may hint at my next big kit that I will be building (along with a hint from the end of my previous LEGO post here – can you guess?).
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). I only just managed to complete this procedure last night, and I was surprised at how close it was with its initial reading (my tank took 39.2 litres to fill back up, and the ScanGauge II thought I’d burnt 41.2 litres).
