LEGO Mini Figures – Episode 1 – “Enter The Gorilla Suit Guy”

The Samurai Warrior takes in the scenery...
Space Villain: "HALT! I am the Space Villain and I will now villain-ise you!"
Gorilla Suit Guy: "Not so fast Space Dude! This is a hold-up!"
Gorilla Suit Guy: "You'd better believe it!"
*Suspenseful music*
Samurai Warrior: "UTSUKE!!!" ("Idiot!")
Samurai Warrior: "Shinpai gomuyou?" ("Are you okay?")
Alas...the Space Villain was not okay...and Gorilla Suit Guy was about to do his big reveal...
Should have seen this coming from a mile away...

This episode was brought to you by Lego Mini Figures (Series 2) and me, of course.

Special thanks goes to “How to Talk Like a Samurai“.

I hope you enjoyed this “just for fun” post. Stay tuned for more LEGO posts in the near future – including an update on the latest development of my LEGO Technic Custom Flat Bed Truck I blogged about earlier.

L.A. Noire Trailer #2!!

Quick post about L.A. Noire which I blogged about a few days earlier; at the time I mentioned the second video trailer was on the way. Well, here it is! And the good news is the whole video is comprised of actual game play!

I’ve heard that we’re looking at a story line that will play out at around the 20 hour mark which will make this a massive game. I just hope that the vehicle physics are on-par with Mafia 2. If Mafia 2 could get anything right, it was the way the cars handled and slid about.

Release date has been set at May 20th. Only a bit of a shame that we won’t be getting a PC version.

Anyway, this looks ridiculously impressive already. Can’t wait!

LEGO! “Technic” To Be Exact


This is the first post in my blog where I talk about the custom LEGO Technic  Custom Flatbed Truck that I’ve had since about May 2009 when I started to get back into building LEGO Technic models. This model truck (purely my own design if I may say so) has gone through quite a few iterations since May ’09 and I’m still working on putting the finishing touches to the latest version as I type this.

Let’s take a step back though; this first post will introduce you to the development (from scratch) of the prototype truck and the subsequent (initial) MkI “release” (I’ll leave the latest-and-greatest version for a future post).

Prototype me!


When starting any new LEGO Technic vehicle project, I tend to start off by getting the basics down-pat first: the chassis frame “rails”. The chassis will form almost the back-bone of the vehicle and will function as the main component which everything else bolts onto (much like real-world trucks). I normally go through a few design “phases” before I settle upon the length and width of the chassis unit. It can be difficult to envision just how long and high I want the vehicle to be, so I try to get the chassis as close to “perfect” as I can before I move on (because changes to the chassis rails can become very hard once everything else is attached to it!).

Rolling gear

Once the chassis is sorted, I start thinking about the next most important thing: the wheels! Obviously the wheels and their mounting system will form an integral part of the chassis unit and are obviously an essential part of the truck. Considerations such as wheel-base, wheel-track, steering and ground clearance start coming to the forefront of my thoughts.

Once I’ve got all these considerations sorted and perhaps after experimenting for a little while, I’ll normally end up with what you see below – a rolling chassis!

Not much to look at...yet

Wait a sec!!??

Ok so I cheated a bit here. What you see above is actually (believe it or not) the truck at a slightly more “advanced” stage of completion. You may (or may not) notice a longitudinally-mounted electric motor connected to a 2-speed gearbox, so let me fill you in those components now.

Electric motor

The electric motor I settled-on for this project was one of LEGO’s own: the “M-motor”. One thing I’ve noticed with most of LEGO’s motors, is that they mostly come with their own integrated gear-reduction. This is helpful as it means I don’t need to worry about tweaking the overall gear ratios too much before the power hits the ground. For this truck however, I still opted to build a gearbox of my own design…

Box of gears anyone?

For this project, I decided to custom-make my own LEGO gearbox from scratch. The gearbox offers 2-speeds: LOW and HIGH, plus a “neutral” range (which obviously transmits no power to the wheels).

The actual design of this ‘box is one which I’ve used for ages in my LEGO models now…it utilises an “input” shaft which connects to the electric motor, and from there, transmits power down to a “layshaft”. Finally, the power reaches the rear-end of the gearbox where I generally mount a drive shaft to the rear wheels, or in this case, a “final drive” unit which will run a chain/sprocket drive on the rear axle. If I’ve lost you several lines back, here’s a pic:

Gearbox explained...maybe

Selection of gear ratios is obtained by sliding the lower half of the gearbox (the layshaft)  back and forth so that it engages LOW, neutral, or HIGH. It’s a relatively simple design but one that works admirably. As any gear head will tell you though, only one gear ratio must be able to be selected at a time, otherwise (as expected) the gearbox cannot rotate and will lock-up, so I ensured that the gears were aligned sufficiently to avoid any issues.

Here’s a YouTube video of the gearbox in action…you’ll also get to see the rolling chassis in this video (incidentally, the proposed “RC” [radio-control] feature never materialised – at least not yet anyway):

Gear ratio-wise, LOW gear offers 3:1 reduction, while HIGH gear doesn’t change the ratio at all, offering a true 1:1 ratio (direct) drive straight through the gearbox. That’s not the end of the gear reduction though; at the rear end of the gearbox, the final drive reduces the ratio (no matter what gear is selected) by 3:1 again. In other words, the trucks enjoys some fairly serious gear reduction with LOW gear engaged, to the point where the motor can easily break the rear rubber tyres loose on slippery surfaces.

Chain me up

Eventually, I hooked up a chain drive from the rear-end of the gearbox down to the rear axle of the truck (which incidentally added another 1.5:1 worth of gear reduction!). The rear axle features a fully-functioning differential unit with three spider gears. I won’t bore you too much with the details, but some of the pics you’ll find at the end of this post should hopefully tide you tech-heads over.


OK, so I’m speeding things along a little bit here (mostly for the sake of readability)…to talk about the other major component and consideration for the vehicle. The frame! Otherwise known as the body or cabin or “cab”.

Here’s one of the earliest iterations of the framework which I came up with for the truck (note the battery box mounted immediately behind the cab, which takes 6x AA batteries):

First version of frame/cab

But alas the angles in the front pillars drove me crazy from a geometrical perspective (they could never seem to line-up 100%), so I scrapped that design and went for something a little more rigid (and at more sane right-angles!):

Final frame - awaiting gearbox

Once the frame was mostly settled-on, I could focus on getting the interior sorted and other somewhat minor details such as hooking up a gear lever and linkage so that the gears could be selected from the cab (as you’ll see in videos further down this post). But there was still one of vital component remaining…a steering system!!


Steering systems are always a challenge to build. On the one hand you have two giant front tyres which need room to be turned about their steering axis (this is where you need to make sure your chassis rails are narrow enough at the front end to allow this!), and on the other hand, you need to devise a way with which you’ll get the motion of the steering wheel inside the cab all the way down to the front axle to do the actual turning of the wheels (read: a pile of linkages!). On top of this, all these linkages must clear the rest of the vehicle, the motor, etc and everything else as they move back and forth, to and fro, to steer the wheels.

The system I ended-up using for the truck could perhaps be considered a type of “drag link” and you can see a bit of how it works in the YouTube video at the end of this post. The steering system you see in action here, while satisfactory, didn’t make me as happy as I could be – the steering gear ratio was too high – so after MkI, I lowered the ratio significantly. I’ll fill you in on this in future posts.

Mk1 ready!

So I eventually got the truck built to a level of my satisfaction and thought I was done. Hah! Unfortunately (or fortunately), in LEGO land, things are never finished…there’s always something more to be added, adjusted, broken-down and re-made or just plain changed. I will save all that subsequent development for future posts though, and instead leave you with pictures of how MkI turned-out. Enjoy!

Rear 3/4 view
Heli view
Front 3/4 view
Belly of the beast
Chain drive to rear differential
Looking down into cab...
Rear end

Mk1 videos

A Stylistic Noir, Post-War Setting From Rockstar

L.A Noire

To be published by the renowned Rockstar Games, L.A. Noire is looking to be pretty promising already and that’s even though we haven’t heard much about it yet.

From what I’ve seen so far, the game will be set in the 1940s and 1950s and feature dark, stylistic environments which will set the atmosphere for (hopefully) some pretty good action. Gameplay-wise it seems this title will be focused on the player being a “good guy” and performing detective work, solving crimes in a grim, “noir-like” post-war Los Angeles – a bit of a change from the usual “bad guy” premise in (generally) bright, sunny surrounds (think “Grand Theft Auto” series and “Red Dead Redemption”).

There’s already a trailer out for this (see below) but of course it’s more of a teaser than anything. Stay tuned for January 24th when apparently a second – and presumably more-detailed – trailer will be released.

I’ve been a bit of a fan of Rockstar’s offerings in recent times, especially with titles like Red Dead Redemption. But I absolutely love the 40s and 50s eras being portrayed in games (I enjoyed Mafia 2 immensely – even with its flaws), so if this release is anything like the quality we’ve seen from Rockstar of late, I can’t wait!

Here’s some links in the meantime – check out the YouTube trailer (which I suspect shows the game in an earlier build)….but how could you not love the soundtrack!: – Official Rockstar Games L.A. Noire website – WikiPedia L.A. Noire article

Edit: added link to official Rockstar Games online content.

ScanGauge II Reveals Deep, Dark Secrets!

Image courtesy

Well the postman has been and gone, so I am now officially the proud owner of one of these nifty car computers. There’s just way too much to say about this thing in one post! So, I’ll use this update to show you what this little baby looks like out-of-the-box, run through my in-car installation and share my initial thoughts (and save the rest for later posts!).

Get me out of this box!

The packaging for the ScanGauge II isn’t anything to write home (or to you) about, but it does the job. More notable (aside from the unit itself), is the two manuals that the unit ships with: the “Quick Start” guide, and the full-blown User Manual.

With the package open, the unit itself is quite compact, measuring in at just 12cm wide, 4cm high and 2.5cm deep; this does seem to help lend the unit for easily mounting in almost any desired position on the dashboard, but more on that later (!). Packed with the unit is the data cable which consists of a RJ45 connector at one end (which connects into the ScanGauge II unit) and an industry standard (male) OBDII connector on the other – this is the business-end of the cable which actually plugs straight into your vehicle’s OBDII port*; on my car, this port is immediately under the dash, near the steering column.

Box front
Box back
It's loose!


Installation of the ScanGauge II is straightforward. Connect up the cable and turn the ignition to “ON” or start the car up. The ScanGauge II display will show “Connecting…” for a short period during which time it automatically detects the OBDII protocol the vehicle uses (my Hyundai Tucson uses “KWPF” incidentally – there is also a way to manually “force” the OBDII protocol to be polled if needed).

After a short moment, all the secrets that your car has been holding back from you will be revealed! If you’re a bit of a gear-head like me, you’ve probably always wondered just what the coolant temperature was upon initial start-up (and when it was safe to start applying some full-throttle!), or whether starting off in 2nd gear at a gentle pace used less fuel than using 1st, or perhaps just how cool (or warm) the air going into your intake manifold was…well fear not, ScanGauge II has all these features – and more! Just try not to get too distracted by it!

Even if you’re not a gear-head, this unit can give you all sorts of handy info – hows about how much your trip has cost you in fuel $$$ as you drive (read: taxi meter for all your freeloading friends!).

I’ve only had the ScanGauge II for a day or two yet, but already it’s proved to be quite a handy gadget which I find myself referring to (and sometimes fumbling with) way too often while I drive (safety first mmkay).

Up on a pedestal

There are quite a few locations in the interior which the ScanGauge II can be mounted. Included in the package are two Velcro strips which will help you in your mounting endeavours. I ended-up settling on the top of the centre dash panel/fascia as the new home for my ScanGauge II because it was a bit too thick/long/wide for mounting any place else hehe :(.

See pics below…

Centre dash mount
Close-up 1
Close-up 2

Calibrate me, baby

One of the best features of the Scan Gauge II (and one of the main reasons why I purchased it) is that it’s capable of displaying not only average fuel consumption over a given period, but real time display as well! This might not seem like a big deal, but on my car, I only get average fuel consumption read-out, so having a real time display telling you just how much fuel you’re dumping into those cylinders right now is definitely handy. I should also mention at this stage, that all the measurements shown can be displayed in either Imperial or Metric, so if you prefer “gallons”, go right ahead – I’ll stick to “litres”. :)

In order to obtain the most accurate measure of fuel consumption, the ScanGauge II has a straightforward (but optional) calibration process which you can perform that only requires two tanks full of fuel. Basically, fill your fuel tank, set the “Fillup > Done” command to tell the ScanGauge II you’ve just topped-up, and drive around. When you get down to 1/4 full, fill up the tank for the second time (ask for the receipt!), use the same “Fillup” command again, but only this time, the ScanGauge II will tell you how much fuel it thinks you used, and you have the chance to manually adjust this value to actual amount you did use (by looking at your fuel receipt from the second fill-up ;)). I only just managed to complete this procedure last night, and I was surprised at how close it was with its initial reading (my tank took 39.2 litres to fill back up, and the ScanGauge II thought I’d burnt 41.2 litres).

As a quick aside, there are actually quite a few factors which can lead to differences in fuel consumption measurement (which I won’t go into here), which is why the manuals recommend that you attempt the calibration process using the exact same fuel station pump for your first and second tank fills (and ideally I’d say at the same time of day too). Unfortunately, I wasn’t allowed this privilege as I stopped at a random fuel station at 10pm last night on the way home, so it could well be that the ScanGauge II is more accurate than I thought (the calibration process can be run again at any time).

Watchya got?

So just what can this thing show you on its compact display screen? Here’s the definitive list of “gauges” which are built-into the unit along with the label descriptors which denote each gauge on-screen (note: some of these may not be supported by your vehicle):

* Average Fuel Consumption (AVG)
* Real Time Fuel Consumption (LHK/MPG)
* Battery Voltage (VLT)
* Coolant Temperature (WT)
* Intake Air Temperature (IA)
* Engine Speed (RPM)
* Vehicle speed (KMH/MPH)
* Manifold Pressure (not available on some vehicles – isn’t available on mine)
* Engine Load (LOD)
* Throttle Position (TPS)
* Ignition Timing (IGN)
* Open/Closed Loop

And that list is just half of what you can get. There is also a seperate mode named “TRIP” which displays things like fuel used, fuel cost, fuel remaining, max RPM reached, max coolant temperature reached, and much more. And you can view this information for the “current” drive, today’s average, (as well as yesterday’s) and for the fuel readings, you can get averages for the current fuel tank.

Virtually whatever data your car’s computer can “pull” from its on-board engine and fuel management sensors, this thing can pick-up and show you**. I haven’t yet had a chance to view all of these gauges for any respectable length of time (the screen allows you to display any four at once), but so far I have noticed how warm the intake air temperature (IAT) can get while idling away in traffic. Today while home-bound and battling peak hour traffic at a standstill for what seemed like an age, the IAT eventually reached 66 degrees (C)!!! Once I picked up some decent speed and started cruising, this figure dipped down by around 50% though and cruising around on a cool night or just after starting the car in morning, temperatures of 25-35 are generally expected. Warmer temperatures generally yield better fuel economy and lower emissions though, at the expense of outright engine performance (which is why you notice a lot of so-called “tuners” install cold-air intakes on their cars).

Also worth mentioning is the fact you can use the ScanGauge II to “pull” trouble codes from your car’s computer (if it’s experiencing any…trouble) and after repairing the issue, “clear” these codes using the ScanGauge II as well. This feature I don’t really see myself using given the relative “new-ness” of my car, but who knows I guess right?

Closing (initial) thoughts

Cruising around...

So what do I think of this thing? Well, considering all the read-outs and information available at a glance with this unit ( that is normally “hidden” from view), it’s definitely worth the $159 (Aussie retail). The fuel information this thing can show is almost worth the price of admission alone, and over time, it’s very possible that this unit will pay itself off by “teaching” you to drive in a more fuel efficient manner (especially if you are a particularly “fast” driver). Even if you’re not interested in the fuel-saving premise, there’s still a wealth of other information that you can glean from it. For me, this unit shows me a whole other dimension of my vehicle’s operating characteristics that I simply wouldn’t have got by looking at the standard dashboard gauges and readouts that came with the car from the factory.

So yes, I’d say it’s a good buy.

* Australia has been a bit iffy regarding the inclusion of the OBDII port on its vehicles so you may want to check if your vehicle has one before you shell out for this unit (otherwise it’s useless). Only since 2006 has there actually been a requirement by the Australian Design Rules (ADRs) to include this diagnostic port in all new vehicles – having a 2009 model vehicle myself, I of course didn’t have to worry, but depending on your vehicle make and year, your mileage may vary (haha).

** I’ve heard that with a bit of code tweaking, it’s also possible to display automatic transmission oil temperature with this nifty unit, but that apparently it’s a bit hit-and-miss depending on your vehicle – oh how I can wish…

Steam Rolling Stock

Model steam engines are actually quite cool if you’re a bit of a geek like me who’s into anything with a motor in it. Several different manufacturers of the things exist out there, such as Mamod, Wilesco and the much-revered Mercer line of models (read: $$$).

This post introduces you to the current Wilesco range of steam engines I’m lucky enough to possess.

I first picked up a Wilesco steam roller (D365) maybe two years ago now, and that was my first steam model. Since then I’ve acquired another Wilesco model, the D405 tractor.

In this blog I hope to keep you updated on all things model steam, where that be tractors, boats or stationary engines and anything else related to the wide world of steam engines, big and small.

Stay tuned for more posts soon which will go into more detail, but in the meantime enjoy the pics below which show off my current steam inventory…

D365 Steamroller
D365 Steamroller
D365 Steamroller
D405 Tractor
D405 Tractor
D405 Tractor

ScanGauge II Incoming…

As I write this, there is a ScanGaugeII somewhere out there with my name on it.

I’m expecting delivery of this nifty fuel economy computer in a matter of days and providing 100% compatibility ensues and everything goes off without a hitch, I’ll be able to report on my fuel economy findings with great detail.

At the moment, I’m reliant on the Tucson’s trip computer which only displays average fuel consumption rate and distance to empty; while this is not exactly a kick in the teeth, I would really love to have some type of real-time (or as close to) fuel consumption readout so I can see just what’s going on as I jab the accelerator with my right foot.

Not only that, but the SGII provides lots of other information from the OBDII port of the car, such as throttle-position, intake air temperature, manifold pressure, coolant temperature, and much more. I hope I don’t get too distracted from the road!

I’ll be providing updates (and perhaps an un-boxing hehe) as soon as the mailman arrives with my precious parcel.

More soon.

Average Joe’s Guide to “hypermiling”

All this talk of “hypermiling” – you may or may not have heard about it already. With the cost of fuel increasing it’s perhaps no surprise that there is a huge community of drivers out there who are challenging themselves to achieve the best possible fuel economy from their vehicles on a daily basis.

I’ve only recently become aware of this “phenomenon” and I must confess that already I’ve become a little bit addicted to it – it’s almost like a game where you repeatedly try to hit a higher score. This is quite a confession coming from me, as only 2 or 3 years back, I was a serial speeder or “hoon”, trying to get from A to B as fast as possible, and getting myself worked-up and stressed out over people who seemingly couldn’t get out of my way fast enough.

So…just what is this “hypermiling” business all about?

Basically, you take a car – any car (preferably your car mmkay) – and you set about driving in the most efficient manner possible. Note: this does NOT mean you drive as slowly as possible, making every other poor driver who’s stuck behind you furious and ending up late for every appointment.

Rather, hypermiling is all about getting the most out of your tank of fuel. There’s heaps of hypermiling guides out there (some of them pretty extreme) on attaining the absolute pinnacle of fuel efficiency from your vehicle, but that’s not what this post is about.

This post is intended to introduce you (and I’m not calling you an Average Joe btw – not directly anyway hehe) to hypermiling and open your eyes to just what it can do for you and outline some simple things you can try next time you’re out on the road to start you on your own way to “hypermiling”.

So let’s get started…

1. Get your car serviced

It should be no surprise that a well-maintained vehicle uses less fuel. The main thing is to ensure that your engine’s oil and filter is changed in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations – generally every 6 months or 7,500km if you drive regularly and drive in traffic (who doesn’t these days). Apart from this though, ensuring your vehicle is serviced and tuned regularly will go a long way to helping you save cash both in the long term (by avoiding costly repairs later on down the track) and the short term (by saving you money in fuel).

2. Check your tyre pressures

Yes this might seem obvious, but when was the last time you checked your tyre pressures? Low tyre pressures have the effect of increasing drag and friction on the vehicle and can also adversely affect your road handling. Properly inflated tyres help your vehicle move along the road as efficiently as possible. I’m not sure if you’ve ever tried to pedal a push-bike with flat or under-inflated tyres…believe me, it’s no fun. The laws of physics for cars is no different.

Check the tyre placard inside your glovebox or on the driver’s side door jamb which shows you the manufacturer’s recommended tyre pressures depending on your vehicle and its load. If you have aftermarket tyres and wheels of a differing size than the manufacturer’s standard, this placard may not be of much use to you, but generally speaking, the lower the profile (skinnier the sidewall) of your tyres, the higher the tyre pressure you should run.

3. Lose some weight

Every single object inside your car requires energy to move it along as you drive. Things like unnecessary boxes loaded with miscellaneous paraphernalia and any other junk which you might be carrying around in the car with you – it’s safe to say if you won’t need it at your destination today, then leave it at home. The lighter your car is, the less energy it will take to move it along. Some might argue that most items you remove will make such an insignificant difference it’s almost not worth it, but I believe that every little bit counts and it’s the mindset that matters.

Plus if you regularly cart around your favourite 5 bowling balls in the boot of your car, they definitely can’t be doing you any favours in the fuel efficiency department…

Note: I’m not asking you to be paranoid here and start removing everything from your car (you can leave the back seat and the spare tyre in the car – you might need them one day) – and I’m not asking you to flatly refuse taking your slightly obese Aunt Betty along to her doctor’s appointment once every few years either.

4. Leave early – relax!

A lot of people these days jump behind the wheel of their car and start racing towards their destination. Sure, we all have our days when we’re running late and simply must GO, but speaking in an overall sense, if you finding you’re having to do this more often than not, it will actually contribute to you using more fuel, wearing your car out faster, AND, perhaps most importantly, stressing you out more as well.

By leaving the house a few minutes earlier than normal, and driving at a comfortable pace (read: not a snail’s pace), you will find you will eventually end up being a calmer person behind the wheel and you may even save yourself some money at the fuel bowser too.

5. Accelerate gently

Moving a car from a dead stop takes the most amount of fuel of all and this is arguably the most fuel inefficient time as you drive (see point 6 below on ways to avoid this). Once you get up to speed and start “cruising”, you’ll find that your fuel consumption drops off quite significantly (provided you’re not “cruising” at 120mph). This is the main reason that cars generally use more fuel “around town” – because driving in busy areas generally requires more stopping and starting (and thus more fuel) than say, cruising comfortably down a quiet country highway at a constant pace.

So, with that in mind, the goal is to accelerate from a stop gently, and reach the speed limit (yes that means staying within the speed limit – see point 7 below) in a timely manner – not too slow, but not too fast either – and to try and maintain that speed for as long as possible.

If you have a manual transmission or an automatic transmission which allows you sequentially select gears (+ and -), aim to shift as early as possible as you accelerate (but not so early as to labour the engine). Holding gears excessively and building up engine RPM as you accelerate will only hurt your fuel economy. You will get to know when your own vehicle’s “sweet spot” is to shift up. In my Tucson, the transmission will shift up into top  gear at a measly 57km/h and the torque converter lock will kick-in straight away provided the throttle application is light or moderate allowing the revs to drop right down.

6. Build a “buffer”

As you drive, particularly in urban and built-up areas such as cities and towns, you’ll generally encounter many sets of traffic lights. As we’ve learnt above, starting from a stop is the most fuel inefficient time as you drive a car. This is because it takes much more energy to move a stationary object from a standstill than it does to simply maintain speed or slightly increase your speed.

With that in mind, aim to “time” your red lights, i.e., lights ahead just gone red? Start slowing down earlier (again, be mindful of drivers around you – don’t be a snail) and you may find that by building up a so-called “buffer zone” between you and the red light, the lights will more likely go green again before you reach them, allowing you to coast through them perhaps even without ever touching the brakes. This is obviously much more fuel efficient than speeding right up to the red light, stopping the car, then starting it back up again.

7. Stick to the speed limit!

This is probably the most annoying point of all to a lot of people, but believe me, speed limits are there for a reason. Driving at elevated speeds only causes more wear on your car, more stress on you and of course, increased fuel consumption.

By driving the speed limit, you’ll be able to react to events around you earlier and with greater efficiency, not to mention you’ll definitely use less fuel cruising at the limit (or dare I say it – just below it…).

8. To sum it up…

There’s loads of other little things you can try to get better fuel economy from your car, but the above is what I consider to be the key points for starters. I may no doubt delve deeper into this “phenomenon” in future posts, but I figure this is enough bed time reading for the time-being.

You’ve probably realised by now that hypermiling is all about “energy preservation”; by driving in a consistent manner, changing your speed as little as possible, and if you need to make changes in your speed (stopping or starting) aiming to make those changes as moderately as possible. Hypermiling is not about driving slowly, but about driving as efficiently as possible, as much as possible.

Until next time, happy hypermiling!


Welcome to the Harman Motor Works Blog! This blog is intended to cover a broad range of subjects; everything from hypermiling to hobbies – whatever I can get my hands on really. Categories to the right are pretty self-explanatory. Stay tuned for more!